Aso Sankinkotai Road Walk
Parts of an ancient highway dating from the end of the 16th century still remain in the Aso region, this short walk takes you from the village of Akamizu (Redwater) up to the top of the caldera wall and back down again. The route follows the path the Kumamoto lords and their huge retinues would travel on the Sankin Kotai (the system of compulsory attendance in Edo every other year demanded by the Shogun).
The lords would begin their journey from Kumamoto Castle, journeying up past Ozu and on to the caldera wall, they would then descend into the caldera at a point near the Futae Pass and after visiting the Matoishi tea house for refreshments continue along the edge of the caldera basin before climbing back up the caldera wall at the eastern edge and continuing their progress to Oita where they would continue the journey to Edo by sea.
The walk
There are two ways to do this walk; start from the bottom and go up or from the top down. I recommend the bottom up route as you get the steep part done first and then can relax and enjoy some lovely views on the way back down again. There are free parking areas at the top and bottom.
Going at a very leisurely pace the walk took around 40 minutes to get to the top and 30 minutes coming down, and this was with a couple of stops and a lot of photo taking along the way. The old road is made of rough stones and winds its way up the steep mountainside first through a shady cedar tree forest and for the last third through the open grasslands of the caldera wall. The walk is suitable for beginners, though you may not enjoy the steepness going up, particularly on a hot day. However once you reach the grasslands you come to an area with several buddhas and a fresh water spring where you can quench your thirst.
The route
From the bottom the route starts here, if you are travelling by train, get off at Akamizu Station and then walk along route 23, it will be signposted for the Futae Pass, before the road starts going up hill you will come to a cross roads, turn right here and after a couple of hundred meters you will come to the parking area where the walk begins. Go up the steps, past the toilets and you will be on the old road. By car come along route 57 and then turn left at Akamizu station and follow the directions above.
If you fancy going downhill first then from Ozu take the Milk Road up the caldera wall to here, unfortunately there is no English sign, so keep your eyes peeled for the sign on the left. There is a small parking area and an information sign with an English explanation.
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Travel Tips
After your walk from the bottom parking area turn left and follow the road for a couple of km until you come to the Matoishi teahouse, this is where the Lord’s rested and took refreshments before continuing on their journey around the caldera bottom. There is a small parking area and toilets, walk along the road a little and then through the tori gates, though the original tea house is no longer there, on your left you will see the tea house gardens and fed by gushing springs, go straight up the path and you come to a small shrine with a lovely pond and crystal clear water.
